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Thursday, November 4, 2021

Sales Also DF/UF/USB-PD-PPS



 

It's said in various places that 

  • Vendors will try to convince you that only OEM chargers should be used;
  • Some of the OEM Chargers are fake
I'm wondering about the first one,
and the second one as well.



Here comes the confusing part, *not* from the net but from the charger itself:
PDO 5.0V = 3.0A or 9.0 = 3.0A
or
15V= 3.0A or 25V=2.25A

PPS 3.3-11.0V = 4.05A or 3.3-16.0V = 2.8A
or
3.3-21.0V = 2.1A


An old Samsung charger is not PDO nor PPS,
9.0V = 1.67A 
5.0V = 2.0A
(that "equals sign" I keep typing is inaccurate; it is actually a symbol for DC volts, and the other sign looks like a wavy line (For AC)


These are no simple 5-volt chargers, one is 9 volts potentially,
One is 20 volts potentially.
That's a real punch in the arm for the wrong phone.


Very long cable works, sort of (not really)


Hello? (Phhht) Heello??
I ordered an "Active" cable for three-times the cost of mortal cables, that has all the specs I'd need. 
Not "100w" but "60W" (the freaking charger is only 45)
And it's not a hairy cable, it's smooth and thin.



A reviewer states that it has chips inside.
Well, whatever, it better dance and sing, for the price.
Before Madness ensues (see below), I think that the charger is a host, and the phone is a sink.
"so, let's change sink and source to DFP and UFP, just to keep them guessing"



OTG (must be democrat)



Embittered Psychotics might remember the poster from 1979
(Pre cat "Hang in there Baby") 
But this is all I could find quickly.



But I did not come here to denigrate the pissant clowns coming up with this stuff, but to buy a 2021-era cable that should last through a couple more brain-farts



It's not a question of *slow*, it's a question of "not working at all" for whatever the hell greek fucking reason, and that is why I'll overbuy,  because the newer versions, coated with snake-oil, will please windows and the damned phone!!
O, fine, slither away in horror....

------------
My keyboard's Num-lock, Caps lock key were frozen. I ERASED Windows (which amounts to some capital offense, I suppose) but it was cheaper than buying another PC or another keyboard! 
A hint was, in BIOS the keyboard worked perfectly.
No, windows got a hair up its gigantic ass and stuff died.




The Official windows (22000?) has the keyboard perfect, but
the beta 22494 kills the num and caps-lock.

Amazon seems to have about as vague an idea of what you want, as Microsoft does when you report a problem.
"Usb c to c" "10 ft" "10gbps"
brings up HDMI and extension cords, 3-footers.
Google takes me seriously and finds what I want ON Amazon.
Except, there are hosts of cables (tons, scads) and it's hard to know if I picked the right one.




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